I disconnect each, and engine starts rattling. This is the area I will investigate more deeply soon.Ĭorrect. Looks as per manual.Ī stuck open EGR valve will direct boost out the exhaust. Feels like its leaking via EGRĪ dirty MAP sensor (on top of the engine) will cause turbo problems. Servo moves (closing the vanes) as I push accelerator pedal. Ive stripped the turbo, blades, compressor, VGT part is all ok. Electronically controlled by servo motor. (ours here in the US are vacuum controlled)Ĭorrect. If the vanes dont move you will get little to no boost. The turbo has variable vanes inside the turbine. Ive connected the gauge right before CP3 pump. JK goes fully to 155000kPa (22500psi).Īnd make sure you have adequate fuel flow from tank to engine. During driving, JKU goes up to max 105000kPa (15200psi). On JK, the idle pressure is 33000kPa (4800psi). These parts are NOT cheap.Ĭar starts fine now. If you are lucky enough to drop a cylinder with just a bent or damaged exhaust valve, don't push it to the point of the valve head breaking free and taking the piston / rings / cylinder sleeve / cylinder head along with it. With this possibility, I wouldn't rev the engine or put it under any load unless you find an electrical fault that gets the cylinder firing correctly again. Possible broken glow plug tip (ceramic) could damage the injector tip, or, more likely, damage an exhaust valve when leaving, causing loss of compression. Rail pressure affects all cyliinders equally.Ī single dead cylinder would be electrical or mechanical (physical)įaulty connector or broken wire to injectorĭead or damaged injector. If you have a single dead cylinder, that wouldn't be due to low rail pressure. Your MAF error code i believe is taking you in the right direction.ĭoes your intake have the 'Mercedes' sensor? A loose or disconnected wire at this sensor could also trigger your Limp Home Mode. Looking forward to solve the issue together. Blow pressurised air into intake manifold, and see if performance improves. Replace/swap boost sensor and MAF sensor from JK and see if it changes anything Although I have stripped EGR valve before, but did not pay attention. Its just programming issue.Īnd few more, but not related to engine operation. U0415 - which is impausable data from ABS. The E-brake release does not turn it off. But I have full brake (despite ABS is not working, who cares. One thing I'm guessing is ECM deliberately reduced engine power (limp mode) thinking the brakes are gone.

Had this malfunction during purchase, so I was aware of this. Although I have replaced the regulator with new one, the rail side is bad thus leaking. Leacking from high pressure side (regulator side). Therefore no functionality from turboĪs you can see from above list, there is almost nothing left to check, however I do believe that 2 brains are better than one, so please step in and advice what else can be a cause. EGR valve is gone, so it equalises the pressure from hot side to cold side. Not sufficient fuel burnt to impel the hot side, thus suction and compression part lacks rotational Turbo is ok visually, no broken blades etc. Remove exhaust pipe/ cat converter right after turbo charge (thinking the cat is blocked or so). So no issues with fuel supply.ħ) Removed top cover, removed timing belt. No effect.ĥ) Replaced fuel rail pressure sensor (front) with new one. So this is out of question.Ĥ) Removed fuel rail pressure regulator (back). Test run the car, no changes in fuel rail pressure behaviour.ģ) While CP 3 was out, removed and checked return flow valve. Recently bought and changed 2 more (# 1 and # 3). Replaced 2 return valves on 2 (# 2 and # 4). Originally swapped to my old (1st) jk injectors, which are Bosch 445 115. Low rail pressure was indicated by scanner.ġ) removed CP 3 pump. Issues I have and steps/repairs I have done at my backyard so far: Basically feels like driving 2.0 liter atmospheric diesel While driving, if no load, it slowly goes up to 2.5 3k. Deliberately bought problematic vehicle from my friend, who got tired at mechanics for 7 month of resultless pain. Still runs perfect.ĭecided to change to 4 door. My rig: (2nd) 2008 JKU CRD 2.8 Turbo manual. FOR THOSE who can learn/take away here it is : unicapro (you will see black JK on top of volcano) Amateur page, but well deeply engineered. DO NOT take is as add, but I have instagram page where I posted all the repairs, modifications.

But more to that mechanic, electronics engineer, and huge fan of building designing manufacturing of equipment. Ive been reading posts on this forum occasionally.

Jeep 2.8 crd egr coolant leak fix